Seaside serenity: My best Essaouira travel tips
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Less than 3 hours’ drive from buzzy Marrakech, you find whitewashed and windswept Essaouira. With its long beach, a medina free from motorbikes and handicrafts for sale with price tags, Essaouira is the perfect place to kick back for a couple of days. Read on for my best Essaouira travel tips.
“Okey, then.” I hear behind me. “But only a short tour”. I turn around just in time to see my father swing his rather stiff hip over the camel’s saddle. And before I know it, he sits 2 meters above the sandy beach. If you have ever seen a camel rise up before, you know it’s not a move for the faint hearted… Now, there was just one thing for me to do: get in the saddle of the camel in front of him.
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It was our second to last day of our 1 week travelling around Morocco and five minutes’ earlier we were walking on Essaouira’s pretty, white beach. Moving towards a train of camels we only intended to photograph. Now, we were rocking along to the camel’s special pace towards the sea.
Why visit Essaouira?
Marrakech and Essaouira offer contrasting experiences and allowing time in both when visiting Morocco is a great combination. Marrakech, known for its bustling medina and vibrant atmosphere, immerses visitors in a whirlwind of sights, sounds, and flavors. In contrast, Essaouira, a serene coastal town, tempts with its laid-back vibe, picturesque harbor, and tranquil beaches, perfect for relaxation and seaside charm.
Which is exactly why you should visit. My best Essaouira travel tip is to lower your shoulders and just immerse in the coastal city’s pace. Sip excellent coffee while people watching from a street café, get into a conversation with people you come across, stroll along the historic fort and watch the fishermen come in with the days’ catch.
If you are a cat person, Essaouira is definitely the place for you. You will see them everywhere and it seems like keeping them healthy is a joint responsibility in the community. Every other shop has water and cat food put out and if you find one sleeping on the restaurant chair you want to sit on, you should not guarantee on the staff to move it.
The Medina of Essaouira UNESCO World Heritage Site
Did you know that Essaouira once was North Africa’s most important harbor? It’s true. During the 17th and 18th centuries it was a major seaport that connected the Trans-Saharan trade with the rest of the world.
Despite what one might think because of Essaouira’s typical European architectural style and the historic presence of both Portuguese and French colonial powers, Essaouira was built by a Moroccan sultan. Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah was the ruler of Morocco at the time and ordered the construction of Essaouira as a strategic port for trade. For the job, he hired the French architect Theodore Cornut to design the city’s layout. And that is where the European influence, with its fortified walls, towers and impressive ramparts, came from.
The uniqueness of a late 18th century, North African fortified city, built in the time’s European military style was UNESCO’s reason to include the city on its world heritage list.
The rise of other ports, such as Casablanca and Agadir, along with the decline of the trans-Saharan trade, resulted in Essaouira losing its significance throughout the 20th century. In the 1960’s and 70’s the city became a hub for hippies (it’s easy to understand why) and since then it has experienced a revival as a popular tourist destination.
Tips on how to travel from Marrakech to Essaouira
You have several options when it comes to getting to Essaouira from Marrakech. Joining a day tour to Essaouira is possible and can be booked asking your riad in Marrakech or online via either one of the well-known providers such as Viator and Get Your Guide. You can also just Google tours to Essaouira to find local companies offering day trips.
Another option, and the most affordable, is to take a public bus. The most frequently used bus companies amongst tourists are CTM and Supratours. CTM has one departure between Marrakech and Essaouira per day, while Supratours who are a bit more expensive got 6 departures. Tickets for both companies can be purchased online on their web pages, or directly at their bus terminals a short walk from Marrakech medina.
Both bus companies are supposed have comfortable coaches and the ride takes approx. 3 hours. In 2023, adult rates ranges from 90 to 124 MAD.
Private transfer to Essaouira
A more comfortable, but a bit more costly, alternative is to book a private transfer. This is what we opted for, and I would 10/10 choose this option again. I checked prices with three companies: the tour provider we used for our two-day getaway to Ait Ben Haddou from Marrakech; our riad in Marrakech; and a random company I found online. I went for the cheapest to 600 MAD which was the random company, called Rachid Taxi Essaouira.
All details were arranged on e-mail and the evening before, I received a photo of the car (a new Kia) we were travelling with. Our driver was already waiting when we arrived at the designated meeting time and a few minutes’ later we left Marrakech behind. Half-way we made a coffee and toilet break and after 3 hours we arrived in Essaouira, where our driver organized a porter to follow us to our accommodation in the medina.
For the return to Marrakech Airport, we had asked our riad to organize transport. And don’t you think they had booked the same company as I found randomly on Google? Same price, same driver, same car, and the same pleasant stop along the way. I even got back my sunglasses that I’d forgotten in the car the previous day.
How long should you stay in Essaouira?
As written above, day trips to Essaouira from Marrakech is possible. But I will only recommend this if you are very short of time. Going on a daytrip means a lot of driving with only a few hours to explore the windy city. And you will not be there for the evening and morning atmosphere – in my opinion the best times to get the feeling of any place.
So, my Essaouira travel tip is staying at least one night. With 24 hours you have enough time to explore and get a good feeling of the white-washed city. The optimal length in both my and my father’s opinion is two nights, like we had. That allows enough time to really kick back and to just stroll around without a plan and to re-visit your favorite places.
With more than 48 hours in Essaouira, I would get bored… The exception is if you are traveling in the warmer season and plan on hanging out on the beach a lot or do water sports. Or if you want to take day trips. Then I assume you need more than 2 days.
What is the best time to travel to Essaouira?
Essaouira is an all-year destination. In the warm season, when other parts of the country are scorching, the ever-present wind from the Atlantic Ocean cools you down. While in winter, Essaouira is slightly warmer than Marrakech, the mountains and the northern parts of the country, and the walls and narrow alleys of the medina protects you from the wind.
When I visited in January, the coldest month of the year, it wasn’t warm enough to sunbathe on the beach, but pleasant enough to enjoy a cold beer on a rooftop in a t-shirt or light maxi-dress. As soon as the sun set, it was necessary to layer up. With a light cardigan, leather jacket and a shawl, combined with the restaurant’s blankets and terrace heaters, sitting outside till bedtime was no problem.
In the midst of summer, the beach will be your savior during the day. In the evenings, I would head up the stairs to the medina’s rooftop restaurants where the ocean breeze can reach you.
Tips for things to do in Essaouira
This takes us back to the camel situation on the beach… Because even though it was not a high priority on my list, it is on the things you can do in Essaouira. I had been on a camel once before. Then, I was 19 and on my first day on my first trip outside of Europe, I made the mistake of showing the inventory of my wallet to the man holding the camel in front of the pyramids of Giza outside Cairo. Story in short: he took my camera, walked us off from the rest of my group and refused to command the huge animal to sit before I gave him most of my cash. Welcome to Egypt, I guess! I didn’t even get a picture of myself on said camel in front of the pyramids…
Luckily, this wasn’t the case in Essaouira. Here, the camel man did as promised. He took us on a short ride to a spot where we had the city in the background. Then took a lot of photos of us before he led us back. A spontaneous decision by my father resulted in a 15 minutes’ episode I will remember forever.
Apart from riding camels (or horses) on the beach, these are my suggestions for what you should see and do on your travel to Essaouira:
Attractions to visit in Essaouira
Unlike camel riding, checking out the rampart and the fortress walls on the northern part of the medina, dating back to 1765, is a must. The impressive military structure stands as a historic landmark in the city, and the many canons still in place shows its massive defense system. Looking straight out on the crashing waves of the Atlantic, one has panoramic views to everyone getting close to the city by sea. This is also a good spot to see the sun set, however I suggest finding a nice rooftop restaurant to do so instead. Read on to get my best tip to exactly where.
Another must visit is to soak in the atmosphere in the fishing harbor. Here you find endless small, wooden fishing boats and the double number of seagulls. A rather large number of cats are also present, and so are locals shopping for fish. They say that you should come here at dawn or early evening to see the fishermen come back with their catch, but I visited at several different hours and the port was bustling with life at all times. The fishing harbor is located just on the outside of the walls on the southern end of the fortress walls, and you can’t miss seeing the tower of Sqala du Port.
Just strolling aimlessly around the streets of the medina is, off course, also something you should do. Compared to Marrakech, it’s a relaxing experience, still similarly great for observing local life. As Essaouira’s medina isn’t that large and has two wider, parallel roads going through, you won’t get lost. At least not for long.
Essaouira’s Jewish Quarter
Essaouira’s old Jewish quarter, the Mellah, is an interesting part of the medina to walk through. Until about 50 years ago, there was a thriving Jewish population in the city making up close to half of the cities’ inhabitants. Jews and Muslims coexisted in the coastal town, and for as long as Essaouira’s was an important trading port the Mellah played an important role.
As Essaouira’s importance degraded and the state of Israel was founded, the Jewish community decreased and by the 1980’s the Mellah was abandoned. Walking through the streets, it’s easy to see that nothing much has happened in this neighborhood since then. While there are some cute shops and cafés and a riad or hotel here and there, many of the houses are left to crumble.
Food and drink in Essaouira
Given its location and many fishing boats in the harbor, it’s to no surprise that Essaouira boosts with great seafood. What is a surprise, is the great coffee you get more or less everywhere! A remnant from French colonial days, perhaps?
Sit down on a random street café and spend some time people watching while sipping americano or whatever your choice of coffee is. You will find everything from sushi to Moroccan couscous among the restaurant selection in the city.
Enjoy lunch at one of many restaurants in the city or along the beach promenade. Seafood is definitely not your only choice. As boring as it may sound, we had pizza for lunch both days – both really good! The best one, accompanied with the freshest orange juice ever, we found on Mega Loft.
Just like in Marrakech, rooftop restaurants are your best bet to find alcoholic beverages on the menu (except at Mega Loft). So, if you fancy a drink after sightseeing, get ready to climb some stairs. And mind, buildings are taller in Essaouira than in Marrakech! Le Club Taros is one good option that we visited twice. Even if we didn’t, you can also dine here, plus it’s probably a nice place to catch the sunset and go for drinks in the evening. Just not as good as my Essaouira travel tip two paragraphs down. You will also find alcohol served in some of the beach restaurants, at least at Beach and friends where we stopped for a cold beer.
Seafood and sunsets
A place I (kind of) regret not eating at are the seafood stalls just inside the fortress walls from the harbor. They cook fresh fish or other seafood of your choice to a reasonable price. The stalls are numbers, and I would check with your accommodation which stalls they would recommend. We only stopped by during the day, as for dinner we instead opted to go to the rooftop restaurant at Salut Maroc. Not just the first evening, but both. That is how much we like the food, wine and vibes. The sunset was pretty spectacular both nights as well.
The first evening, we both had fish with Asian inspired accessories. The second, I had a delicious spider crab and my father one of the best steaks of his life. Mind, he’s 78 years old and has been out and about a few times before. Both evenings, the wine was Moroccan, and all variations equally good. I didn’t even know Morrocco made wine until I visited! Do you wonder what the chocolate fondant with homemade vanilla ice cream tasted like? Sorry, I don’t think it is possible to describe…
Shop til you drop
Is it possible to visit Morocco without wanting to go nuts shopping? I honestly don’t think so… He may not have gone nuts, but even my father was eager to get his own piece of handmade rug and got it at Kasbah Telouet on our two-day trip to Ait Ben Haddou from Marrakech.
In contrast to the haggling skills, you need to shop souvenirs in Marrakech, both the weaving cooperative at Kasbah Telouet and a lot of shops in Essaouira got set prices. And in the places where I had to haggle, it was a lot easier as the sellers didn’t start as high as I experienced in Marrakech.
Inside the medina you also find the local souk, where you find the locals shopping for groceries in the morning. Even if you don’t buy anything here it’s still a nice place to get a feel of the local culture. Essaouira a large art scene, and there are several art galleries to pop into on your wander around town.
Spend some time on the beach
Since Essaouira got the beach of dreams, it’s only fair to give it a little more attention. Aside from the mentioned camel riding, this is also a great place for watersports. For surfing, you should head further down the coast Taghazout and Agadir, but windsurfers will be happy in Essaouira. Several premises along the beach also offer kayaks and paddleboards for rent.
Is galloping into the sunset on a sandy beach on your bucket list? Look no further. There are not only camels on the beach, but also beautiful Arabic horses.
If neither getting into the sea nor riding any type of animal are your things, go for a stroll on the promenade and take a pause on one of the charming beach restaurants.
Where to stay in Essaouira?
My recommendation is basically to just pick a riad or hotel anywhere in the medina. Especially if you only have a few nights. The medina is safe to walk around, even though some of the alleys look torn and dark, and you have all the attractions right outside the door. You find plenty of options to all budgets on all your regular accommodation platforms.
We stayed at Riad Le Khan Mogador which is perfectly located, beautifully decorated and delivered on almost everything. However, so so cleaning on my bathroom, somewhat funny smells in both our rooms and no room keys I can’t give the review I wish to give – the Belgian owner, Corinne, is such a lovely lady!
Next time, I’m going all in for colors and geometrical shapes and will be staying at Salut Maroc.
Wrapping up my Essaouira tips
Essaouira certainly is a place to stop for a few days. It is easy to get to and easy to get around. It is both beautiful and interesting. It has delicious food and charming people. Literally the optimal place for a time out.
My last Essaouira travel tip is one that let the time after your visit be just as relaxing. Do not pet the dogs (nor cats). Not even a small, white, fluffy one in a bright blue harness sitting outside a shop. He might be the opposite of aggressive, but those of us who have some experience dogs (which should include me) know that an excited dog may try to bite around your hand…
A scratch so small I wouldn’t have thought twice about it at home, resulted in no less than 6 injections and a lot of hassle upon return to Norway. This tip does not only apply to Essaouira or Morocco, but to all places with high risk of rabies…
Excellent and very comprehensive article, Anne, many thanks for sharing! By the way, I just published this Essaouira travel guide in case you or your readers would like to take a look too: https://marielaaroundtheworld.com/essaouira-travel-guide/