3 Days in Phong Nha, Vietnam: The Perfect Escape

Are you looking for a hidden gem in Vietnam? From spectacular caves to peaceful village life, this guide covers everything you need to know to plan 3 fantastic days in Phong Nha.

I didn’t expect to fall for Phong Nha. It wasn’t love at first sight.

Already less than 2 hours in, I was melting in the July heat, tired from hectic days of sightseeing, fighting off mosquitos, and simply overwhelmed by the noise, the amounts of people, my homestay that didn’t look anything like the pictures, and the uninviting town centre. It wasn’t even 9 in the morning yet!

I sat on a café watching a mother and toddler giving their dogs a lice treatment in the river below and contemplating leaving as soon as I’d visited a cave. 3 days early. Fortunately, I made a quick scroll through other accommodation options first. Because Phong Nha Farmstay, where I initially had wished to stay, had gotten a cancellation for all the 3 nights I was there.

And just like that, what started with a bad first impression, turned into one of the most surprising and memorable chapters of my Vietnam journey. From the incredible caves to local village walks, this was the closest I came to a true hidden gem.

Since I couldn’t find much information on visiting Phong Nha Vietnam, I’ve made this guide to show you why you should visit and how to get the most of you your time there. Hopefully you won’t have the overwhelming start to your visit as I had.

Intro to Phong Nha, Vietnam

Phong Nha Ke Bang is a haven for everyone who loves beautiful nature and friendly people. And those who are into breath-taking caves are in for a treat.

The region is famous for the Son Doong Cave – the largest cave in the world, discovered as late as in 1990. It’s almost 9 kilometres long, and up 200 metres high and 150 metres wide in some places.

While it’s possible, chances are slim you’ll be visiting this exact cave. It’s a multi-day, guided expedition sold out more than a year in advance, even though it comes with a high price tag.

Instead you should come here for the laid-back vibe, the smaller yet impressive caves and to explore the national park and countryside. Phong Nha Ke Bang is still not as developed as many other popular destinations in Vietnam, and there are still far more domestic visitors than international.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site

Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003, and for good reason. Why? Because of the extraordinary cave system that you find hidden beneath the lush jungle and limestone cliffs.

Several hundred caves have been discovered so far, with more than 200 kilometres of underground passageways and waterways. Shaped by nature for more than 400 million years. With 3 days in Phong Nha, you have time to visit several of them.

And the area is not just home to some of the most spectacular caves in the world, it also offers a fascinating look into Vietnam’s geology, biodiversity, and natural heritage.

Guide to My Son UNESCO World Heritage Site

Practical Info About Phong Nha, Vietnam:

Before we dive into what you should fill your days with, let’s get the practicalities out of the way. As Phong Nha-Ke Bang isn’t on most people’s Vietnam itinerary, let’s first take a look at how you get there and where you should stay.

How to Get to (and From) Phong Nha

Phong Nha-Ke Bang is located in the northern part of Central Vietnam, between Ninh Binh and Hue. Most visitors come here on a tour from north to south or vice versa.

There are several alternatives on getting here from both directions:

• Train: Take the train from Hanoi, Ninh Binh, Da Nang or Hue to Dong Hoi. Dong Hoi is the closest station to Phong Nha, and the easiest is to arrange pick-up via your accommodation.
• Bus: Bus directly to Phong Nha is another alternative, but coming from the north it’s a rather long journey. Night bus is an option, just remember that road safety in Vietnam may not be the same as you’re used to from home.
• Private transport: As Hue is only 3,5 hours’ drive away, hiring a private driver is a comfortable alternative if you are travelling in a group of 3 or more.
• DMZ Bus: There are one-way bus tours stopping at the DMZ half-way between Hue and Phong Nha. You’ll get to see the tunnels people hid in for years and learn about life during the Vietnam/American War. I did this going from Phong Nha to Hue.

Read my review and guide to the Lotus Train from Ninh Binh to Phong Nha here.

When to Go

You can visit Phong Nha-Ke Bang year-round, but the best time is during the dry season from March to August. The winter months from December to February can get pretty chilly, but they are also low season, and prices may be a bit lower. In the wet season from August to December floods can happen, and some caves may be closed due to high water levels.

Mind, Phong Nha has a tropical climate, and rain can happen all year. I visited in July, and the water levels in Phong Nha Cave was too high to explore all of it.

Where to Stay

Phong Nha is actually where I struggled the most finding accommodation. That doesn’t mean there’s lack of places to stay, there are plenty of homestays and budget options available. Several located along the river in walking distance to the town centre.

Because this trip was quite spontaneous, and I travelled at peak domestic travel season, lots of places were already fully booked. Including my first choices, Phong Nha Farmstay and the Commander Lodge (same owners).

I ended up booking a room at a homestay by the river, which probably would have been perfectly fine if I hadn’t been so tired at arrival. If you read the intro to this article, you already know what happened. I ended up staying at Phong Nha Farmstay after all, and I can’t recommend them enough. Keep reading to learn more.  

Bottom line is, if you’re travelling to Phong Nha during a Vietnamese holiday, book accommodation early.

Phong Nha Farmstay

This colourful dream of a place is located in a small village approx. 10 kilometres from the town centre. It’s created and run by a local woman and her Australian husband, and you can feel their connection to and love for the area and the community from the moment you enter.

The staff come from the area, the food they serve is sourced locally, they have their own water purification system to reduce plastic waste in the village, and they do a village walk for guests every morning where you learn everything there is to know about life in the village and Phong Nha.

Phong Nha Farmstay is almost like a destination on its own. The unique rooms are spread across several buildings, there’s a full bar, a restaurant serving both Vietnamese and European dishes, a small gym, spa facilities and a beautiful pool area.

In addition to having a shuttle bus to and from town, bicycles available for free and motorbikes for rent, you can also hire a motorbike driver to take you around for a day. And they offer a varied program throughout the week, from movie nights to social dining experiences. And every day at sunset, there’s happy hour in the pool area. Everything notified through their WhatsApp group, that you’re added to at check in.

It’s not the cheapest accommodation in Vietnam, but a place you’ll remember and where you know your money goes back to the local community.

Note: This is not an ad for Phong Nha Farmstay, I’m just happy guest and a supporter of how they run their business.

Plan Your 3 Days in Phong Nha-Ke Bang

So, now that we got the practicalities over with, it’s time for the fun stuff. What to do when you’re in Phong Nha!

This is how I spent my three days here, and I honestly think it’s the best itinerary for seeing some caves, but not getting “caved out” and seeing more of local life in the region.

Compared to places such as Ninh Binh and Hoi An, Phong Nha feels more remote and it’s a bit more difficult to find your way around. But following this plan, makes it so much easier.

Day 1: Boat Trip to Phong Nha Cave

Caves are what Phong Nha is famous for. So, to kick off your visit, start with the two caves that are the easiest to reach on your own: Phong Nha Cave and Tien Son Cave.

Phong Nha Cave is located up the river and to get there you need to take a boat from the town centre. The boats take 12 people and cost 550.000 VND (approx. € 18), 600.000 if you want to add the Tien Son Cave. In addition, you must pay entrance fee to one or both caves. Just go to the ticket office, and as long as there are other people there, you’ll find someone to split the cost with fast. I came on my own and ended up sharing the cost, and the experience, with 10 really nice people from all over the world.

The over 7-kilometres long Phong Nha Cave is the most famous, and you will go in by boat as the river goes through it. There are several large grottos where you can get off the boat and explore.

Unfortunately, the water was too high at the time of my visit, so we could only see the first kilometre of it.

The Tien Son Cave

While what we saw of Phong Nha Cave was impressive, the real highlight for me on day 1 was the Tien Son Cave. This may be different if you get to explore more than 1km of the first one.

To see it, you disembark before the entrance to Phong Nha Cave and walk through the kiosks and cafés, before you follow the signposted trail uphill. There are over 500 steps up to reach the entrance, and not for everyone.

However, the views going up are great!

The Tien Son Cave may not be the largest cave in Phong Nha, at about 1 kilometre, but it sure is spectacular. You walk through it in a loop and the stalagmites and stalactites keep impressing you along the way.

Back down by the river, the boat is waiting to take you back to the town centre. Just remember the number on the boat.  

Day 2: Explore the Countryside

While the caves are what Phong Nha is famous for, the area is still rural and to really get the feeling of the place, you need to get out in the countryside.

I both borrowed a bicycle from Phong Nha Farmstay and joined their village walk to explore the area. But if you’re not staying there, you can do the same (or rent a motorbike) from town.

If you want to stop for refreshments, the Pub with cold beer is a classic. Nowadays, cold beer isn’t hard to come by, but that’s a pretty new phenomenon here. It’s only the last 10-20 years that many material goods that most of us have grown up with, were introduced to this region.

What about the Duck Stop? Apparently, the original duck leader activity started here, and the duck stop in Phong Nha is an Instagram classic. Young people even flock here just to make videos with the ducks and don’t even bother visiting any caves.

Activities based on interacting with animals are not my cup of tea, so this wasn’t even on my list. You do you, I guess. But if you go and it feels off, leave and write a review.  

Kick Back by the Pool

After being out and about in the valley, I recommend allowing yourself some downtime. Travelling in Vietnam is fantastic, but it can also be tiring. And what better place to relax than by Phong Nha Farmstay’s pool?

Even if you’re not staying here, you can visit for the day. Use the pool, eat lunch and definitely stay for sunset!

Day 3: Phong Nha National Park With an Easyrider

On your last full day in Phong Nha, it’s time to see more caves. And believe me, they get better! Phong Nha-Ke Bang is also more than caves and countryside. The mountainous area is covered in old forest with hidden waterfalls and ponds to swim in. To get a taste of this, add the Botanical Garden to your itinerary, which is more of a nature trail than other botanical gardens I’ve visited.

To get around, book a local easyrider. That’s an experienced motorbike driver that takes you around while you sit on the back. Phong Nha Farmstay has trained several drivers from the village to transport tourists around and the work on a rotating basis. The price you pay goes directly to the driver.  

After getting recommendations from the staff, I decided wich places I wanted to visit – and off we went.

As easyriders are a quite popular sightseeing method in Vietnam, I’m sure there are places to book one in the town centre as well. Or just drop by their twin hotel, the Commander Lodge and ask.

Is Ha Long Bay still worth visiting or is it too crowded? Click here to find out!

Paradise Cave

First up on my itinerary was the Thien Duong Cave, or Paradise Cave as it’s better known as amongst tourists. Did it live up to its name? 100%. The first few kilometres of the cave was discovered by a local man in 2005. Later, they found out it’s a whooping 31 kilometre long, making it one of the longest caves in Asia, and 60 metre tall at the highest. It’s been open to tourists since 2010.

The trail leading up to the cave is located 1,7 kilometres from the car park and ticket office. You can either walk or add an electric shuttle to your ticket. Then you need to conquer 570 metres uphill before you reach the cave entrance.

Tip for visiting caves: Bring layers of clothes, as the caves are much colder than the air outside.

After descending a long, wooden staircase into the cave it really feels like you’ve ended up in a different world. Only 1 kilometre of the cave system is open to the public, but with all the incredible formations, small pools and viewpoints, be prepared to spend at least 1-2 hours in here.

I met a Swizz guy and a lovely family from HCMC in the ticket queue and ended up having such a good time hanging out with them throughout the whole Paradise Cave experience. Travelling solo isn’t lonely!

Other caves worth visiting

On a full day trip, you have time to visit at least one more cave. Dark Cave is a popular option amongst the younger crowd as it involves both swimming and ziplining.

History buffs may be more interested in the more recently opened Commander Cave, located along the Victory Road 20. This one is more than just a natural cave, as it’s an exhibition of how it was used during the Vietnam/American War. You can even join a virtual reality (VR) experience that takes straight back in time to a supply convoy on the Ho Chi Minh Trail.

Phong Nha Botanic Garden

Like I mentioned above, the Botanic Garden is more like a nature trail in the forest than other botanical gardens I’ve visited. It’s a protected area for flora and fauna within the national park, with more than 500 plant species. However, there are little to no interpretation.

You can spend as much time as you like here, as there are several loops of varying length you can walk. You get a simple map showing the trails and the key points of interests at the ticket office.

I believe the Botanic Garden is a bit more interesting when travelling in a group. Walking around the dense forest on my own wasn’t all that. So, I took the shortest loop to the Gio Waterfall, plus back and forth to the Vang Ahn swimming hole. You can actually swim here, and a couple of girls hopped in as I left.

And that’s it for your 3 days in Phong Nha, Vietnam. Let the easydriver take you back to your accommodation and enjoy your last dinner and sunset in this beautiul region.

Is three days in Phong Nha enough?

Yes, I’d actually say that a 3-days stay is the perfect amount of time.

If you simply want to tick of seeing a cave or two, one day might be enough. However, I’m so happy that I didn’t give up and continue to Hue after just seeing Phong Nha Cave. If I had, my impression of Phong Nha would have been completely different.

Three days here gave me enough time to really calm down and explore the area at my own pace.

If you’re really interested in caves, you can consider staying longer. For me, 3 proper cave visits and a day out on the countryside was perfect. I could have stayed longer, but only to soak up more of the relaxing vibes at Phong Nha Farmstay.

Where to go next?

I guess Phong Nha isn’t the only place you visit in Vietnam. Check out some of my other guides for inspiration on where to go next:

• The most popular things to do in Ninh Binh: a guide for first-time visitors
• Plan 2 perfect days in Hue, Vietnam