Hoi An: More Than Just Lanterns and Tailor Shops
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I had planned to stay in Hoi An for five nights but ended up staying for eight.
Why? Because Hoi An offered everything I love about a destination: fascinating history, beautiful architecture, lush countryside, tropical beaches, delicious food and authentic culture. I could easily have stayed another week without getting bored.
Hoi An is so much more than just the famous Ancient Town. And if you ever hear someone say it’s not worth spending more than a day here, they’ve probably only visited on a day trip themselves and never ventured far from the river. Or visited at the wrong time of year.
This guide covers everything you need to plan your visit to Hoi An, and I’m sure you’ll soon see why it deserves at least a few days.
Check out my full 3-week Vietnam itinerary here!
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Introduction to Hoi An
Since you’re here, you’ve almost certainly seen photos from Hoi An. The Ancient Town with its yellow houses decorated with colourful lanterns, is one of Vietnam’s icons along with Halong Bay. What was once one of Southeast Asia’s most important trading ports, is now a well-deserved stop on almost every traveller’s itinerary.
Located along the Thu Bon River on Vietnam’s central coast, Hoi An has been a commercial port since the 2nd century BD. First as part of the Cham Kingdom until the 14th century, but it didn’t really take off before it got under Vietnamese control. The town flourished between the 15th and 19th centuries, with merchants from Japan, China, Portugal and many other parts of the world came here to trade and even settled down.
Under French rule in the 19th century, the port was moved to the new city Da Nang, on the coast approx. 40 kilometres away, and Hoi An’s economy stilted. Because of this, the town didn’t have much strategic relevance anymore and hence was mostly saved during the American / Vietnam War.
UNESCO World Heritage Site
Still, Hoi An fell into decay, and if it hadn’t been for a Polish architect, the historic buildings would have been demolished to make way for apartment buildings.
Kazimierz Kwiatkowski came to Vietnam in 1981 and managed to convince the local authorities to change their plans. Throughout the next decade, he lay the grounds of the town you see today.
In 1999, Hoi An was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site because its well-preserved old town is a unique example of a traditional Southeast Asian trading port. You can still see a mix of Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese and European influences today.
The historic, preserved part of Hoi An is called the Ancient Town, and that’s the wording I use for the old town in this article.
Practical Information
Before we get on with all the fun things you can do in Hoi An, and what I recommend. Let’s get the practical details you need to know before booking out of the way. These are all my recommendation after spending endless hours planning my Vietnam trip (I had two failed attempts before finally making it all the way to Hoi An) and visiting for over a week.
The Best Time to Visit Hoi An
You can visit Hoi An all year, and people who’ve visited at different times says the atmosphere changes with the seasons. Just don’t expect perfect sunny weather at all times.
Vietnam has three distinct climate zones: North, Central and South. And Hoi An follows the central climate, which has two seasons: the rainy, monsoon season and the dry season.
The rainy season starts in August / September and last till January, with October and November being the wettest and with the highest risk of monsoons and flooding in the Ancient Town. Monsoons with heavy rain and wind can, however, happen at all times during this period and you should follow local weather advice.
A perk with visiting in the rainy season (at least before December / January), is less crowds.
The dry season starts in January / February, and at the beginning it can be quite chilly. At least during the evenings and mornings. From March, the temperatures rise fast and this is when the beach season starts. Summer, from June – July, is hot and humid. Temperatures often go up to 40 degrees Celsius and splitting your days between the town and the beach is the best way to do it.
July is also time for the Vietnamese school holiday. So even though there are fewer international visitors because of the temperature, don’t expect a crowd-free experience.
How Many Days Do You Need?
I’ve already said that one day isn’t enough to really experience Hoi An, but I’m also aware that there isn’t always time to spend a full week there.
Try to make room for at least 2-3 nights. That’ll give you enough time to experience the Ancient Town at different times of the day, see a bit of the surroundings and get some tailor made clothes.
If you come in the warm season and want to spend some time on the beach as well, add a couple of days. Then you’ll have time to do a couple of excursions too.
I had planned to stay five nights and split my days between sightseeing and relaxing on the beach. However, I realised quickly that this wasn’t even close to enough days to do and see everything I wanted at a relaxed pace. So I changed my itinerary and added 3 more nights. And even then, I didn’t have time to do it all, so Hoi An ended straight back onto my bucket list.
Where to Stay in Hoi An
There are so many accommodation options to choose from, it can almost feel a bit overwhelming. There are hotels, resorts, homestays, and hotels in all categories and prices. But before picking one, you should decide which area will match your interests best.
Ancient Town
Perhaps the most obvious place to stay. The Ancient Town is the historic old town you see on all the photos from Hoi An, located next to the river. If you’re only here for a couple of nights, staying close to the action can be a good choice.
Just bear in mind that it’s not a quiet area of town, and if you’re going during the monsoon season try to find accommodation a bit away from the river – you want to be able to access your hotel even if the river is flooding.
An Bang Beach
If you’re planning to spend most of your time on the beach, you should consider staying there. It’s only 4-5 kilometres from the Ancient Town and easy to travel between.
Here, you find a variety of homestays, with and without pools, as well as proper beach resorts.
Mostly recommended in the hot season, as it may get boring if it isn’t beach weather.
Between the old town and the beach
The last area I want to recommend checking out, is between An Bang Beach and the Ancient Town. This is what I went for and will 10/10 recommend if you want to split your days between sightseeing and beach like I did.
This area is quiet but still within walking distance and only a quick bike ride away from the bustling town. And in the other direction, you have rice paddies and farmland and the beach.
I stayed at Hoi An Golden Holiday Elite and it was everything I wished for. A large room with comfy bed, breakfast, friendly and helpful staff, pool with sunbeds, spa, and free bikes in good shape.
How to Get Around
Compared to larger Vietnamese cities such as Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, Hoi An is easy to navigate. If you’re mainly staying in or near the Ancient Town, walking is your way to go. You might get lost amongst the yellow houses now and then, but it’s not large and you’ll always find your way to the river. Except for before 9 o’clock in the morning and a few hours in the afternoon, it’s a pedestrian zone. And even when motorbikes are allowed, it’s nothing like other places
To go between the town and the beach, and for exploring the countryside and the rice fields, cycling is great. The terrain is mostly flat and traffic not as crazy as in other Vietnamese destinations. Most accommodations offer free bicycles. While it’s allowed to cycle in the pedestrian zone in the old town, I recommend using the bike parking just outside. At least if you’re planning to shop or sit down for a drink or meal.
I don’t recommend cycling after dark. The bikes usually don’t come with lights, and many motorbikes drives around without lights too.
For after dark, or if you’re going longer distances, use Grab. Grab is the number one taxi app in Vietnam and a must to download. You can book pick-ups by both cars and motorbike, and you see the price listed. Pay in cash or link your credit card to the app.
What to Eat and Drink in Hoi An
First, let me just say that I’m not a typical foodie. I like good food and trying new tastes, but my travels don’t revolve around it. And I don’t mind mixing local meals up with a pizza now and then.
If I find a restaurant I really like, I’m happy to return more than once instead of constantly looking for a new one. It’s usually about the combination of food and atmosphere.
That said, food is an important part of a place’s culture, and I believe learning about it essential to get to know a place. And Hoi An, like most of Vietnam, is a food heaven. So, continue reading to find out what local specialities you should taste while in town.
Food to Try
Cao Lau
If there is one dish you should try in Hoi An, it is probably cao lau. This local speciality combines thick, chewy rice noodles with slices of pork, fresh herbs and crispy rice crackers. Unlike many Vietnamese noodle dishes, it is served with just a small amount of broth.
White Rose Dumplings
These delicate steamed rice dumplings are one of Hoi An’s best-known specialities. Traditionally filled with shrimp or pork and topped with crispy shallots, they get their English name from their pretty rose-like shape.
Mi Quang
Mi Quang is another noodle dish well worth trying while in Hoi An. Wide rice noodles are served with herbs, peanuts and a small amount of flavourful broth, usually accompanied by pork, chicken or shrimp. Vegetarian versions are also common.
Banh Mi
You can find banh mi all over Vietnam, but Hoi An is particularly famous for it. The crispy baguettes are packed with a combination of meat, paté, herbs, vegetables and sauces, although the exact fillings vary. For an easy and inexpensive lunch, it is hard to beat.
Com Ga Hoi An
Hoi An’s version of chicken rice is simple but full of flavour. Fragrant yellow rice is served with shredded chicken, fresh herbs, often pickled vegetables and fish sauce to pour over.
Wontons
Wontons are another reminder of the Chinese influence on Hoi An’s food culture. You will find several versions around town, including wonton soup and crispy fried wontons topped with meat, shrimp and vegetables.
Banh Xeo
These crispy Vietnamese pancakes are made from rice flour and turmeric and usually filled with pork, shrimp and bean sprouts. Tear off a piece, wrap it in fresh herbs and greens and dip it into the accompanying sauce. Maybe a bit messy to eat, but definitely worth trying.
My Personal Restaurant Recommendation
Hoi An is literally filled with places to eat. From small street food places to fancy restaurant and everything in between. Even on the beach, you can get great food. I was particularly happy with my meals at Soul Kitchen.
And in the Ancient Town, I want to give a shout out to Ancient Remedy. I sat down here completely randomly on one of my first nights and was so happy with the food and the service that I came back several times for lunch and dinner.
Every time, I asked the staff for recommendations. And every time they were spot on!
What to Drink
So, what do you drink with all this delicious food? Well. Whatever you want (but save the red wine for more upscale restaurant visits, trust me). There’s no lack of alternatives when it comes to drinks either, from fancy cocktails to coconuts. Just make sure to have at least one fresh fruit juice a day!
But no guide to any place in Vietnam is complete without mentioning coffee. You’ll know what I mean as soon as you’ve tried one. Vietnamese coffee is completely different from anywhere else in the world, so this is your que to stay off the americano’s and espresso’s while you’re here.
Stop by one of the many cosy cafés in the Ancient Town or next to the rice paddies just outside, order a coconut coffee or salt coffee (my favourite) and just relax while life moves past outside for a bit.
Learn more about the Vietnamese coffee culture here!
Things to Do in Hoi An
Now, over to the really fun stuff: what to fill your days with! There are so many things to do in and around Hoi An, from going on a day trip to the Cham Islands or the Golden Bridge at Bana Hills to lantern making workshops and cooking classes.
So, to not make this list too long, I’ve included activities that you can do whether you’re here for a couple of days or a week, in wet or dry season and that is fun no matter age or interests.
Guided Tour in the Ancient Town
A guided walking tour is, in my opinion, something everyone should do, no matter how long you’re staying in Hoi An. It won’t be a life-changing experience, but it will give you a better understanding of the town and the local culture.
In addition to walking around town, you’ll also visit some of the historical sights such as the Japanese Bridge, a Chinese temple or assembly hall and a traditional house. You can visit these on your own too, but information about what they are and how they were used is almost non-existent.
The most interesting on the guided tour I did, was when our guide thought us how to pray at the pagoda inside the Japanese Bridge!
Entry to the historical buildings, including the bridge, is usually not included. You need to purchase the Ancient Town ticket at one of the ticket offices around town. The ticket costs VND120.000 and gives you access to 5 optional sites within the number of days you are there. If not stated, you don’t have to buy this before the tour starts.
Lantern Boat Trip
This is a Hoi An classic and you won’t miss seeing the iconic lantern boats on the river. You can just show up on the riverside in the Ancient Town and book a tour or pre-book on sites like this one on Get Your Guide or via your accommodation.
If you choose to book by the river, make sure to do it with the lady who organises it close to the bridge. Unfortunately, I’ve heard and read plenty of stories of people who got scammed when organising it directly with one of the captains.
You can also buy small paper lanterns with candles to put on the river. Apparently they dissolve in water, but I’m not convinced. So, to be on the responsible side, perhaps skip this part.
Every month on the 14th lunar day (lunar full moon) there’s a lantern festival, but don’t be afraid if you can’t make it that day. I honestly can’t understand that they can fit more boats and lanterns on the river than what was already there on the nights of my visit.
Visit My Son Sanctuary
Interested in even older history? Visit My Son, approx. 45-60 minutes’ drive inland.
It’s a cluster of Hindu temples built by the Cham people between the 4th and 13th centuries. It was heavily damaged in the war, but thanks to the same Polish man who saved Hoi An, also this site was protected, and restoration work has been ongoing since the 1980s- 90s. Like Hoi An, My Son has also been UNESCO-listed since 1999.
You can visit individually, but I highly recommend booking a tour. Preferably early morning before the heath and crowds set in. Without a guide, you’ll just be walking around looking at stacked rocks. Beautiful, but not that interesting.
Read my guide about visiting My Son here.
Dawn in the Ancient Town
Do you want to explore without crowds? Set the alarm early. And by early, I mean early, preferably at sunrise.
The award is seeing the old town wake up. The shutters are still down on all the shops and there’s a special calm you won’t get at any other time of day. The Vietnamese rise early, and this time of day you can sit down by the riverside and see the locals cycle past.
If dawn is too early for you, try to go as early as you can one day. The Ancient Town gets busier and busier throughout the day, before it reaches climax around sunset. More on sunset a bit further down.
Next time, I want to experience sunrise at the beach. Sunrise and sunset are the local’s time there, and they gather for family time and morning workout.
Head to the Beach
I’ve mentioned the beach a couple of times already, but of course it needs its own section. While nearby DaNang is more famous for beach holidays, Hoi An actually got some pretty nice beaches just 5 kilometres outside the old town.
An Bang and Cua Dai are the most famous, and of the two I recommend An Bang. It’s super easy to cycle to, as you just follow the same road all the way from the bike parking in the centre and past the rice paddies.
There are several nice beach clubs to rent sunbeds at, but my favourite was Soul Kitchen. Second was the DeckHouse next door. Both have nice restaurants up a short stair behind the beach and of course you can order from your sunbed as well.
Make sure to stay till the late afternoon one day and experience the whole atmosphere transform as the locals take over. The best time at the beach in my opinion!
Read more about Hoi An’s beaches here.
Join a Lantern Workshop
This is such a unique and fun thing to do in Hoi An. The city is infamously known as the lantern town, and what better souvenir to bring home than a self-made one?
Many shops offer lantern making classes where you get to choose the shape and the fabric, before they show you how to put the fabric on the frame.
Teh whole experience usually takes 1 – 2 hours and it suits all ages. And don’t worry, the lanterns are collapsible and easy to bring home.
Food Tours and Cooking Classes
I combine these two, because sadly I didn’t do any of them. But both will be on my agenda for next time!
Food tours are a great introduction to not only the city’s cuisine, but also the culture. What can be better than having a local guide showing you the best places to eat and get samples from a variety of different dishes?
I did a food tour in Hanoi on the first night of my first visit and it was the best introduction to Vietnam I could get.
You can book a group tour or a private tour, and they usually run in the morning or evening. Whatever time you pick, make sure to come hungry.
If you want to recreate some of Vietnam’s fantastic flavours when you get home, a cooking class is your perfect match.
This experience starts with going to the market to buy the ingredients, before you get to action in the kitchen. As a group, you make several dishes, usually ones that are popular in the town you’re in, and you eat it together at the end.
Do a Guided Bike Tour on the Countryside
Okey, so this was hands down the best experience I had on my whole Vietnam trip. I booked it on a whim the night before, and met up at 08:00 not really knowing what to expect except for seeing more of Hoi An’s surroundings. And it turned into the most interesting and fun morning, cycling through lush farmland and visiting various craft families, and drinking coffee at a chic café in the tiniest village.
There are many different bike tour providers, but most of them goes to a large island in the river and visit different families to learn traditional crafts. I can highly recommend the tour I did (find it here), which included a proper bicycle, helmet and filtered water in a reusable bottle.
You don’t need to be particularly fit to join, as you cycle at a leisurely pace in a mostly flat terrain. But you need to be able to cycle and move around in hot weather for about 3 hours.
Basket Boat Ride in the Coconut Forest
If you’re on Instagram or TikTok, I bet you’ve seen videos of this. Colourful basket boats going down a river surrounded by lush, green vegetation. And some even spinning around as fast as you almost get dizzy just by watching.
I thought about doing this, but ended up booking the bike tour instead as it didn’t really look like my kind of activity. However, if you take it for what it is, a fun activity in pretty nature, and don’t expect a culturally authentic experience, I’m certain it is exactly that. Fun!
You can even book packages that combine the coconut forest with a cooking class or lantern workshop.
So, what about the photos above? I randomly got to try on my bicycle tour on the countryside. I stopped to photograph some boats when my guide, Mike, asked if I wanted to go in a basket boat. Since it was only me on the tour that day, we had some spare time, and Mike knew the family who owned the boats.
And that’s how I ended up on the river with Ruby, with no one else in sight than some ducks and a couple of local fishermen. Did she spin the boat too? Yes, of course.
Rooftop Sunsets in the Ancient Town
Watching a pretty sunset is never wrong. And in Hoi An, I recommend seeing it from one of the rooftop terraces.
Sunset was by far the busiest time of the day in the Ancient Town when I was there, and it was a relief getting into a restaurant or up onto one of the terraces. As soon as I came inside a venue, I couldn’t tell that the narrow streets and the riverside was literally packed with people.
Faifo Coffee is a popular choice by many, but I’m honestly not sure why it’s so special. It was always full when I visited. Compared to Me Hoi An just a couple of doors down the street. I came back here several times, and it was always plenty of space. They serve great coffee, fresh juices, beer, cocktails, wine and even light dishes, compared to Faifo who only offers coffee, tea, juice and cakes.
Get Tailored-Made Clothes or Leather Wear
Hoi An is world-famous for its excellent tailors. A craft that lived through the difficult times in the 20th century and has really thrived since because of tourism.
Not only are many of them really good, but they are also fast. Even if you’re only here for a couple of days, you can leave with new tailor-made clothes. Go by on your first day, decide what you want them to make, come back for a fitting a day or two later and as soon as they’ve finished any alterations, it’s ready to be used.
There are also leather shops, making sandals, shoes, handbags, belts, and more.
I actually didn’t do this, mostly because I didn’t bother spending time on it, but also because I didn’t really need anything. Might definitely get something made next time though.
Everywhere you go, in and around the Ancient Town, you see tailor shops. Just bear in mind that not all offer the same quality, so do some research before you order anything. Ask your accommodation for recommendations or check travel blogs and travel forums.
Learn How Silk is Made
Silk has been part of Hoi An’s history for centuries. During the town’s days as an important trading port, silk produced in the surrounding Quang Nam region was one of the goods traded with merchants from across Asia and beyond.
At the Silk Village Hoi An, just outside the Ancient Town, you can learn about the traditional silk-making process from start to finish, from growing mulberry trees and raising silkworms to extracting the super-thin silk threads from the cocoons and weaving them into fabric.
But you don’t have to visit the Silk Village to see how it’s made, though. Several shops and workshops in Hoi An Ancient Town show the process, from silkworms to weaving the fabric. This is what I did, and it was fascinating to see how much work goes into producing silk.
Watch the Hoi An Memories Show
If you want to learn Hoi An’s history in a different way, book tickets for the Hoi An Memories Show. This large-scale outdoor performance takes you through around 400 years of Hoi An’s history, from its early days to its golden age as one of Southeast Asia’s important trading ports.
With more than 500 professional dancers, elaborate costumes, music, dance and lots of light effects, it’s one of the most impressive shows I’ve ever seen. And definitely not a small traditional performance.
Check tickets and availability for the Hoi An Memories Show
The show takes place on a huge outdoor stage at Hoi An Memories Land and tells the story mainly through visual performances rather than dialogue, making it easy to follow even if you don’t speak Vietnamese. There is some narration, but you are seated after which language you speak (English, Chinese, Spanish (I think) and Vietnamese), and you can read subtitles on large screens.
If you want to explore the fascinating Hoi An Impression Theme Park, arrive early and spend some time before the main show starts. There are also restaurants inside the park.
Tip: Bring mosquito spray (you’re basically on the river), a fan (in the hot season), water and snacks
Go Shopping
Do you want a unique souvenir to bring home? Hoi An won’t let you down when it comes to shopping. Colourful lanterns are an obvious choice, but you will also find beautiful fans, ceramics, jewellery, art and plenty of cute little shops to browse.
Instead of going for the mass-produced souvenirs, look for locally made products and handicrafts. My family got beautiful small fans, which works just as well on warm summer days in Europe as in Vietnam.
One of my favourite things to buy when travelling is locally made art. And Hoi An didn’t disappoint here either. I came by Moc Gallery where the artist himself showed me how he made his unusual paper of coconut fibres before painting on it. The two small watercolour paintings hang on my wall today and I love how they remind me of this trip every time I walk past!
Museums, Temples and Pagodas
Don’t just admire Hoi An’s historic buildings from the outside. Some of the most interesting places in the Ancient Town are hidden behind their colourful facades, from old temples and merchant houses to the elaborate assembly halls built by Chinese trading communities.
The Hoi An Ancient Town ticket includes entrance to five heritage sites, with several to choose from. These include the famous Japanese Covered Bridge, Chinese assembly halls, traditional houses, temples and museums. You don’t need to visit them all, but I definitely recommend choosing a few to get a better understanding of Hoi An’s multicultural history.
Another place I highly recommend is the Precious Heritage Museum, created by French photographer Réhahn. Through his beautiful portraits, traditional costumes, artefacts and personal stories, the museum introduces you to all 54 officially recognised ethnic groups in Vietnam. It is free to visit and, for me, a must-see in Hoi An.
Final Thoughts on Hoi An
As you’ve probably realised by now, I completely fell for Hoi An. And because of that, this was one of the hardest articles to write of my whole Vietnam-series. I really wanted my photos and text to show you that Hoi An is worth more than a day of your time, help you plan your time here, but also be realistic about how busy it can feel at times.
So, my best advice? Visit and don’t rush it. Give yourself time to experience more than the lantern-filled Ancient Town. Cycle through the countryside, spend an afternoon at the beach, try the local food and simply enjoy being there.
Hoi An is definitely a place I’ll return to one day.
Where to Next?
- Spend two days in Hue, Vietnam’s former imperial capital
- Explore Phong Nha: caves, countryside and adventure
- Discover the best things to do in Ninh Binh
